Xi'an: Day 4 (11/24/19)
Day three of hanging out with James and Wan Kai Na, the party never ends! Except it ends tonight, because I have a flight home at 7:30am tomorrow.
We originally planned to bike the old city wall but it was cold and rainy so we had to scrap that and improvise. We had a little trouble finding each other in the morning due to bad cell phone reception but eventually met up near the subway station a little after noon. Wan Kai Na had a plan in mind for where to get lunch and we walked a half hour out of downtown.
Most of the walk was in silence; I was fighting to keep my umbrella alive in the wind and I suspect we were all feeling harried from our morning mixup and a little on the hangry side. I think we were all releived to sit down and get some food in us. Wan Kai Na had a plan and told us to find a seat while she ordered. Apparently this place was known for its curry and rice. The chicken broccoli curry was really good for sure, but the meat buns and pumpkin soup on the side were phenomenal! It was kind of like dal in that it warms you right up from the inside - perfect for a rainy day!
The most exciting part of the meal was the end though, when I was introduced to honey rice. It was super sweet and wrapped up in what I assume was a lotus leaf, then delivered with a plastic glove so you don’t get your hands covered in sticky. It was an adventure to eat with my beard and we all shared a god laugh whenever I had to fish a grain of rice out of my mustache. It’s considered like a holiday treat apparently, similar to cranberry sauce for Thanksgiving or egg nog for Christmas.
After lunch we had to decide what to do, what with biking out of the equation, and settled on shopping after I mentioned wanting to buy some bowls and chopsticks to take back home. We scoured several stores before finally finding convenience store with what I was looking for. I picked out a half dozen bowls for myself and friends back home, along with several sets of chop sticks. I figured I really hadn’t bought much in the way of souvenirs and if I’m going to bring something home I want it to be something I actually use on a regular basis. I don’t care much for knickknacks that sit on the shelf.
The store also had a mighty collection of animal plushies that Wan Kai Na and I dorked out over (she likes cute things, like a lot). I fell in love with a pufferfish the size of my head and was this close to buying it if it had fit in my backpack with the bowls. Wan Kai Na was a fan of the pink piggies, which she said were famous, and got really excited to show me a landmark nearby. I didn’t really understand until we entered the nearby mall and I was practically dragged over to a family of 6-foot stall pink pig statues. James asked multiple times if I thought they were cute and if I really meant it, to which of course I said yes (they’re big pink pigs holding roses, they’re the bomb). James relayed that to Wan Kai Na and she was absolutely stoked; she was all smiles and little skips for a solid hour after that. I didn’t get the whole story about why the pigs were a big deal but I suppose it doesn’t actually matter.
From there we walked a few blocks over to what looked like a cultural street. At least I assume so since it was marked by an ornamental gate and older brick buildings. I was still on the lookout for tea and tea bowls so we wandered around a while peeking into textile shops, produce markets, and I think an antique store selling rugs and ink stones. We weren’t having any luck finding tea bowls though, and after like 40 minutes in the rain I was about ready to give up when James shouted me over form down the road. I jogged over and he led me over to his find: a family owned tea shop!
James played translator since the family didn’t speak any English. The bowls were all hand made by the older couple running the store and absolutely gorgeous. There were probably a couple hundred occupying every possible shelf space in the tiny shop, but the most impressive had their own central display podium. These were the most impressive bowls as well as those made by significant people, from actors to government officials. The family had taught pottery classes over the years and now had an impressive number of “famous” works. I would have loved to take one home for the story but they were running like $400 USD on the cheaper side. Way out of my price range compared to the $40 regulars. I spent a long while debating whether to actually buy some but finally convinced myself to get a few. They would make a great souvenir/gift and China had been less expensive than anticipated so I wasn’t going to break the bank.
The family sat the three of us down to sample tea and I spent a good hour learning about tea ceremonies: their purpose, meaning, cultural significance, etc. James flexed his English pretty hard to keep up and by the end he was totally brain fried. I really appreciated it though and he said he was happy (proud) with himself for being able to do it. It showed that all his time watching Hollywood paid off lol.
I loved one of the black teas we tried so after the tea ceremony I bought a whole wheel of it, which is like a year’s supply, and thanked the owners profusely for their hospitality. The three of us were feeling up for a snack and made our way over to a dumpling restaurant that is apparently famous in China (some sort of chain I think) and promptly ordered a full dinner. The dumplings probably would have been enough food on their own but we also ordered noodles. I’m never one to argue with too much food though!
The dumplings were different from other I had seen so far in Xi’an. Rather than fluffy steamed clouds or little soup lads these were palm-sized and fried on the bottom to form a crispy layer. So there was a neat contrast between the crunchy base and soft, springy tops - delicious! I can totally see why they’re so well known! The soup wasn’t anything to sneeze at either. Hot chili oil, peanuts, and glass noodles, it took me right back to my first night in Chengdu.
We took our time eating and reminiscing about the last three days; going through photos and talking about drama in Wan Kai Na’s school and James’ work. I realized that even though we had hung out for two full days, this was the first normal conversation we had. Not philosophizing or making more plans, just shooting the breeze and making fun of each other. It was nice, and made me realize how I hadn’t had a conversation like it in the last three and a half months. Lots of surface talk about places I’d been or wanted to see, but not so much the slow, ambling conversation you can have when your comfortable with someone.
The sun had set by the time we finished our chat and it was time to head back home. But James had one more surprise stop to make - the shoe store! I was caught completely off guard when he said “Wait here. I will buy your mother a gift!” and waved Wan Kai Na to follow. They returned with a pair of embroidered slippers … for my mom! I was totally lost and James explained to me that “that is just how China is. You are a lot of fun, so I buy your mother this gift.” I explained how it was very different from American culture but would make sure she got them and that she knew “you’re good friend James’” was responsible. We then had a photo op with him holding the box so I would have a dramatic presentation picture to show.
And with that, James and Wan Kai Na escorted me back to the train station and made sure I knew which one would get me back to the hostel. They were going to go out drinking so this was goodbye. I hadn’t journaled consistently for over a week at that point, but when I got back I wrote down any bits of conversation I remembered and the following. I think it’s the best ending I can give.
There’s a place for bombastic sendoffs. A celebration of what was accomplished and the promise to meet again. And there’s also a place for quiet farewells. When you don’t know if you’ll see each other again but, in a way, it doesn’t matter. The time you shared was joyous, full of life, and each day together was more vibrant than that day alone.
Our goodbye was quiet; built of long hugs, words of appreciation, sincere thoughts brought to speech. There were promises of more time together in future places. But I think we all knew it was a true parting, a permanent one. We all have to walk our own path - sometimes that imparts endings, but the same path is also responsible for beginnings. A truth I’ve learned and lived over and over these past months.
I’m incredibly grateful that my journey brought us three together, even if only for a short time. James and Wan Kai Na gave me more then I could have ever asked for. Sure, they were my guides and hosts, but they were also my friends. Because at the end of the day, Xi’an is just another city. Thanks to them though, it will be a loving memory I carry with me for the rest of my life.
So remember, future me, that it’s not important where you are, but who you are with. And to be thankful for the time you have.
The next morning the hostel called me a taxi to the airport, I ate a tea-egg sandwich for lunch in between flights, and I watched several movies to pass the 18 hours back to Chicago, where my grandparents picked me up and I slept 16 hours straight.
